Kitten Care 101: A Guide to Your Kitten's First 90 Days
Most kittens come home at around 8 weeks old, and the next three months set up a lot of what follows: the vaccine series, spay or neuter timing, litter habits and how comfortable your cat will be around people. This kitten care 101 guide walks through the first 90 days in order, with the schedule veterinary groups recommend and the setup a new kitten needs.
It is general information for a healthy kitten. Your veterinarian will adjust the plan to your kitten's age, health and history.

Before your new kitten comes home
Get the basics in place first so the first night is calm:
- Kitten food. Ask the shelter or breeder what the kitten has been eating and buy the same food to start.
- Litter box. One with low sides, since young kittens can't climb into a tall box. Unscented clumping litter suits most cats.
- Food and water bowls. Shallow and easy to clean.
- A quiet room. A bathroom or spare bedroom with the litter box, bed, food and water. A new kitten does better starting in one small space than with the whole house.
- Scratching post and toys. Wand toys and balls, put away when you can't supervise.
- A carrier for the ride home and for vet visits.
The Cornell Feline Health Center's rule for litter boxes is one per cat, plus one. A single kitten in a home with no other cats should have two boxes once it has the run of the house.
Weeks 1 and 2: the first vet visit
Cornell advises that any new cat see a veterinarian as soon as possible after coming home. Bring every record you were given. At the first visit, expect the vet to:
- Do a full exam and weigh your kitten
- Check a stool sample for intestinal worms and look for fleas, ear mites and ticks
- Start or continue the vaccine series
- Test for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) if the kitten's history is unknown
- Talk through diet, parasite prevention and spay or neuter timing
If you have other cats, Cornell recommends keeping the new kitten separate until the vet has examined it. Many vets also routinely deworm kittens, according to the Merck Veterinary Manual, and flea products must be ones approved for kittens. Never use a dog flea product on a cat: Cornell lists dog flea treatments among the products that can be acutely toxic to cats.
The kitten vaccine schedule
The 2020 AAHA/AAFP Feline Vaccination Guidelines, written by the American Animal Hospital Association and the American Association of Feline Practitioners, list these core vaccines for pet kittens:
| Vaccine | What it protects against | Kitten schedule |
|---|---|---|
| FVRCP | Feline panleukopenia, herpesvirus and calicivirus | First dose as early as 6 weeks, then every 3 to 4 weeks until 16 to 20 weeks of age |
| FeLV | Feline leukemia virus | Two doses, 3 to 4 weeks apart. Core for all cats under 1 year old |
| Rabies | Rabies | As required by state and local law. Cornell notes it is usually started at 8 to 12 weeks |
The guidelines also suggest considering an FVRCP booster at 6 months of age, because antibodies from the mother can block a vaccine until as late as 20 weeks. That means an 8 week old kitten adopted today will usually have vet visits every 3 to 4 weeks through the first 90 days. The Merck manual puts it the same way: visits every 3 to 4 weeks until about 6 months for shots and parasite treatment.
Until the series is finished, keep your kitten indoors and away from cats you don't know.
Feeding your kitten
Kittens need food made for growth. Look on the label for an AAFCO statement that says the food is complete and balanced for growth or for all life stages. Food made for adult cats only is not enough for a growing kitten. Merck advises feeding kitten food until adulthood, at about 9 to 12 months.
A few practical points:
- Several small meals. Kittens need multiple feedings a day. Use the feeding guide on the package as a starting point and adjust with your vet as your kitten grows.
- Wet food, dry food or both. Both can work. Wet food adds water to the diet, which helps because cats are not big drinkers. Our guide to wet vs. dry cat food covers the tradeoffs.
- Change food slowly. The WSAVA nutrition committee suggests mixing old and new food over at least 3 to 4 days. Sudden switches can cause vomiting and diarrhea. Many cats eat better if the new food is offered in a separate bowl.
- Keep treats small. Treats should be no more than about 10% of daily calories.
- Skip raw food. The FDA has linked raw cat food to H5N1 bird flu infections and deaths in cats, and raw diets can carry Salmonella and Listeria that can spread to people. That matters most in a home with young children.
- Fresh water should always be available.
Litter box training
Most kittens already know what a litter box is for. Your job is to make it easy to find and pleasant to use.
- Put the box in a quiet spot away from food and water, in the kitten's starter room.
- Place your kitten in the box after meals, after naps and after play.
- Scoop at least once a day. Cornell notes that cats may avoid a dirty box.
- If your kitten has an accident, clean it with an enzyme cleaner so the smell doesn't draw it back. Don't scold.
- When the kitten has the run of the house, add the second box on another floor or at the other end of the home.
If a kitten that was using the box stops, call your vet. Peeing outside the box can be a sign of a urinary problem, not just a behavior issue.

Socialization: handle your kitten every day
Socialization is the part of kitten care that is hardest to make up for later. The Merck Veterinary Manual places the most sensitive period between 2 and 7 weeks of age, and kittens that people handle in that window tend to be friendlier and less fearful as adults. Most kittens are already near the end of that window when they come home, so the weeks after adoption still count.
Each day, in short calm sessions:
- Handle your kitten's paws, ears and mouth gently, with a treat afterward. This makes nail trims, tooth brushing and vet exams easier for life.
- Let your kitten meet new people one at a time, at the kitten's pace.
- Get it used to the carrier by leaving it open in the room with a soft blanket inside.
- Play with wand toys, not your hands. Kittens that learn hands are toys often bite and scratch as adults. If your kitten pounces on your hand, stop and redirect it to a toy.
Kids can help with socialization if an adult supervises. Show children how to sit on the floor, let the kitten come to them and pet with two fingers. Introductions to a dog should be slow and supervised. Our guide on introducing a dog and cat walks through the steps, and if a baby is on the way, see preparing your cat for a new baby.
Grooming basics
Start short grooming sessions early, while your kitten is small and curious:
- Brushing. A few minutes a week for short coats, more for long coats. It cuts down on hairballs and lets you check for fleas.
- Nail trims. Trim just the clear tip with cat nail clippers. Do one or two paws at a time if your kitten wiggles. Your vet can show you how at a visit.
- Baths. Rarely needed. If you must bathe a kitten, use a shampoo made for kittens and dry it well so it doesn't get chilled.
Kitten-proofing your home
Kittens climb, chew and squeeze into small spaces. Before you open up the house, check for:
- Lilies. Every part of true lilies and daylilies, even pollen or water from the vase, can cause kidney failure in cats, according to the ASPCA. Keep them out of the house entirely, including bouquets.
- Human medicines. Cornell lists acetaminophen (Tylenol), ibuprofen, aspirin and vitamin supplements as toxic to cats.
- Household chemicals such as cleaners, antifreeze, pesticides and pool chemicals.
- Toxic foods including onions, grapes, raisins, chocolate and products with xylitol.
- String, hair ties, rubber bands and yarn. Kittens love to play with them, so put them away after play.
- Cords and blind strings that can be chewed or tangle a kitten.
- Appliances. Check the dryer, dishwasher and recliners before you use them.
If you think your kitten ate something toxic, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 right away.
Spay or neuter
The American Association of Feline Practitioners supports spaying or neutering cats not meant for breeding by 5 months of age, and notes that cats can be able to reproduce as early as 4 to 5 months. Some vets still prefer about 6 months. Ask about timing at your kitten's vaccine visits so the surgery is booked before the first heat.
Kitten care timeline for the first 90 days
| When | What to do |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Starter room set up, same food the kitten was eating, low-sided litter box |
| Week 1 | First vet visit: exam, stool check, FeLV/FIV test, vaccines |
| Weeks 1 to 4 | Daily handling and play, carrier training, slow intros to the rest of the house |
| Every 3 to 4 weeks | FVRCP boosters, FeLV second dose, deworming as your vet advises |
| About 12 to 16 weeks | Rabies vaccine if not given yet, spay or neuter plan set |
| By 5 months | Spay or neuter, if your vet agrees |
Vet costs add up in the first year. If you are thinking about pet insurance, the best time to buy is while your kitten is young and has no health history to exclude. Our guide to comparing pet insurance companies explains what to check.
Common questions
Where should a kitten sleep the first night?
In its starter room, with a bed, litter box, food and water. A warm, enclosed bed or a blanket in a box helps. Expect some crying the first night or two while it adjusts.
How long can I leave a kitten alone?
Young kittens need several meals a day and a lot of play, so plan for someone to check in during long workdays. Leave the kitten in its safe room, not the whole house, until you know what it gets into.
What is the 3-3-3 rule for kittens?
It is a shelter rule of thumb, not a medical guideline: roughly 3 days to decompress, 3 weeks to learn your routine and 3 months to feel at home. Many kittens settle much faster, and shy ones can take longer.
When should I call the vet?
Call your vet for vomiting or diarrhea, not eating, sneezing with discharge from the eyes or nose, straining in the litter box, or low energy. Kittens are small and can get dehydrated quickly.
Sources: 2020 AAHA/AAFP Feline Vaccination Guidelines; Cornell Feline Health Center; Merck Veterinary Manual; American Association of Feline Practitioners (pediatric sterilization position statement); ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center; WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee; U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Center for Veterinary Medicine. This guide is general information, not veterinary advice.